Tromsø, Norway
Gateway to the Arctic. Aurora almost every clear night from September to March, and midnight sun from May to July.
Best time to visit
Weather by month
| Month | High | Low | Rain | Season |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | -5° | -10° | 109 mm | prime |
| Feb | -5° | -10° | 98 mm | prime |
| Mar | -2° | -7° | 108 mm | prime |
| Apr | 2° | -3° | 91 mm | |
| May | 7° | 2° | 93 mm | |
| Jun | 13° | 7° | 95 mm | |
| Jul | 17° | 10° | 96 mm | |
| Aug | 15° | 10° | 109 mm | |
| Sep | 11° | 6° | 126 mm | prime |
| Oct | 4° | 0° | 125 mm | prime |
| Nov | -1° | -6° | 99 mm | prime |
| Dec | -4° | -9° | 101 mm | prime |
30-year averages (1995–2024) from ERA5 reanalysis via Open-Meteo. Rain is the monthly total.
Cost
Serves travellers at Budget→Premium level. Typically around $230 a day on the ground.
Ranges are typical costs, not quotes. Check the real price before you book.
What's on
Northern Lights Festival January
Classical and jazz in the polar night
Midnight Sun Marathon June
A marathon run at midnight in daylight
Worth knowing
Norway is as close to cashless as anywhere on earth. Cards handle buses, coffee, toilets and market stalls, and you can spend a week here without touching a note. Tipping is not expected.
money · editorial
The aurora needs clear sky and this is a cloudy coast. Chases routinely drive hundreds of kilometres inland, sometimes across into Finland, to find a gap. One night is a coin toss; three or four nights is a plan.
know before · editorial
The sun does not rise at all from late November to mid-January, which some people come for and others find flattening. From late May to late July it never sets, which means no aurora whatsoever, whatever the marketing says.
when not to go · editorial
The island centre puts everything within walking distance and is where you want to be. Across the bridge on the mainland side is quieter, with the cathedral and the cable car and a view back at the town. Further out on Kvaloya you get darker skies and no restaurants.
where to stay · editorial
The centre is a walkable island and buses cover the rest of it. A car matters only if you intend to chase clear sky yourself, and winter driving here means studded tyres, ice and darkness at three in the afternoon.
getting around · editorial
Tromso has its own airport, fifteen minutes from the centre by bus or taxi. Flights come via Oslo in about two hours. The coastal ferry stops here too, which is a slower and much better way to arrive.
getting there · editorial
Quests
Icon
Arctic Cathedral
Eleven concrete triangles from 1965, and a giant stained-glass wall behind.
Fjellheisen
Four minutes by cable car to 421 metres, with the whole island below.
Tromsø Cathedral
The largest wooden church in Norway, from 1861, in the middle of town.
Tromsø Bridge
One thousand and sixteen metres on foot over the strait. Always windy.
Polaria
The Arctic tanks and the bearded seals. Small and honest.
Telegrafbukta
The beach on the south of the island, with the whole mountain opposite in view.
See
Climb Fløya by the sherpa steps
Eat
Eat a northern fish soup, with bread
Reindeer with root purée
Sámi food, served with no ceremony whatsoever.
King crab
Legs the size of a forearm. December to March is the season.
Tube caviar on bread
Norwegian breakfast, bought in any supermarket.
Moment
Head out of the city after the aurora on a clear night
Northern lights
Tromsø sits in the middle of the auroral ring. September to March, with a clear sky.
Whales in the fjord
From November to January the orcas and humpbacks follow the herring into the fjord.
Trail
The Sherpa stairs up to Fløya
1,200 stone steps beside the cable car. Forty-five minutes, without a break.