Prague, Czechia

Fairytale spires, the best beer in the world for the price of water, and a December that looks like a snow globe.

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Best time to visit

Prime months: April, May, June, September, October, December.

Weather by month

MonthHighLowRainSeason
Jan3°-3°39 mm
Feb5°-2°36 mm
Mar9°0°42 mm
Apr15°4°40 mmprime
May19°9°71 mmprime
Jun23°13°77 mmprime
Jul25°15°81 mm
Aug25°15°80 mm
Sep20°11°59 mmprime
Oct14°7°44 mmprime
Nov8°2°41 mm
Dec4°-1°41 mmprime

30-year averages (1995–2024) from ERA5 reanalysis via Open-Meteo. Rain is the monthly total.

Cost

Serves travellers at Backpacker→Premium level. Typically around $100 a day on the ground.

Ranges are typical costs, not quotes. Check the real price before you book.

What's on

  • Prague Spring May

    Classical music festival

  • Christmas markets December

    Old Town Square

Worth knowing

  • Cards are accepted almost everywhere. Keep coins for public toilets and old pubs. Tipping is rounding up or a few per cent.

    money · editorial

  • The currency is the koruna, not the euro, and anywhere quoting euros gives a poor rate. Exchange booths on the tourist streets are the worst way to change money.

    know before · editorial

  • Midsummer and the Christmas market weeks put a permanent queue on Charles Bridge. January and February are grey, cold and empty, which is the trade.

    when not to go · editorial

  • Staré Město and Malá Strana for the postcard and the crowds. Vinohrady for tree-lined streets and restaurants. Žižkov for scruffier nightlife. Karlín for a rebuilt riverside and quick metro.

    where to stay · editorial

  • Trams, metro and walking. The old centre is compact and cobbled, and cars are largely kept out of it.

    getting around · editorial

  • Václav Havel airport, with no rail link: it is a bus or a taxi of about half an hour into town. Trains from Berlin, Dresden and Vienna arrive at the main station in the centre.

    getting there · editorial

Quests

Icon

  • Charles Bridge

    Thirty baroque statues and 516 metres of stone from 1357.

  • Astronomical Clock

    From 1410, still running. The procession of the apostles is on the hour.

  • Prague Castle

    The largest castle complex in the world. The cathedral inside is the reason to go.

  • The John Lennon Wall

    Repainted every week since 1980. What you see today will not exist in a month.

  • Vyšehrad

    The other fortress, high above the river, with no crowds and the national cemetery.

  • Petřín Tower

    A sixty-metre Eiffel Tower on a hill, built in 1891.

See

  • Cross the Charles Bridge at 6am, when it is empty

Eat

  • Eat svíčková with a Pilsner, no rush

  • A pilsner poured slowly

    Three fingers of dense foam. Pouring it quickly here counts as a fault.

  • Svíčková

    Sirloin in root-vegetable cream with cranberry. The Sunday plate.

  • Goulash with knedlíky

    The knedlíky are there for the sauce. Leave no sauce on the plate.

Moment

  • Hear a concert in a small church rather than the theatre

  • The Charles Bridge at five in the morning

    Empty, with mist rising off the Vltava. It is a different bridge.

  • A concert in a small church

    It happens every night, in ten places, for almost nothing.

Trail

  • Walk up Petřín through the orchard

    Half an hour of climbing between apple trees, with the city appearing in pieces.