Munich & Bavaria, Germany

Beer gardens, Neuschwanstein, and the Alps an hour south. Oktoberfest in late September; Christmas markets in December.

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Best time to visit

Prime months: May, June, September, October, December.

Weather by month

MonthHighLowRainSeason
Jan3°-4°65 mm
Feb6°-3°57 mm
Mar9°0°69 mm
Apr14°3°66 mm
May18°8°116 mmprime
Jun21°12°111 mmprime
Jul23°14°107 mm
Aug23°14°110 mm
Sep18°10°87 mmprime
Oct14°6°68 mmprime
Nov8°1°65 mm
Dec4°-2°68 mmprime

30-year averages (1995–2024) from ERA5 reanalysis via Open-Meteo. Rain is the monthly total.

Cost

Serves travellers at Backpacker→Premium level. Typically around $160 a day on the ground.

Ranges are typical costs, not quotes. Check the real price before you book.

What's on

  • Oktoberfest September

    Two weeks, six million visitors

  • Christkindlmarkt December

    Markets on Marienplatz

Worth knowing

  • Germany still leans on cash more than its neighbours. Beer gardens, bakeries and smaller restaurants may be cash only, and the bill is paid at the table. Round up rather than leaving a percentage.

    money · editorial

  • Sundays are properly closed in Germany. Shops and supermarkets shut and only restaurants and museums stay open, so buy food on Saturday. The famous castles use timed entry tickets that sell out well ahead.

    know before · editorial

  • Oktoberfest, which runs from late September into early October, takes the whole city: rooms are booked out far ahead and prices double. In the Alps, November and April are dead months when the lifts have stopped and nothing has opened.

    when not to go · editorial

  • The Altstadt is central and expensive. Maxvorstadt is museums and students. Haidhausen and Schwabing are residential with good food and an easy ride in. The area around the main station is convenient for trains and little else.

    where to stay · editorial

  • U-Bahn and S-Bahn in the city, regional trains out to the lakes and the castles. A car only makes sense for the alpine roads and the smaller villages, and it is a nuisance in Munich itself.

    getting around · editorial

  • Munich airport, with S-Bahn lines into the centre in around forty minutes. The city is also a main-line rail hub, so arriving by train from elsewhere in Europe is genuinely easy.

    getting there · editorial

Quests

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  • Marienplatz

    The Glockenspiel plays at eleven and at twelve. It runs fifteen minutes; bring patience.

  • The Eisbach wave

    A standing wave on a city river, surfed all year, snow included.

  • Nymphenburg Palace

    Seven hundred metres of facade and a straight canal in front of it.

  • Viktualienmarkt

    A permanent market since 1807, with the maypole in the middle.

  • Neuschwanstein

    Two hours south. The castle Disney copied, and which was never finished.

  • Olympiapark

    The tent roof from 1972 still looks like the future.

See

  • See Neuschwanstein from a distance, from the Marienbrücke

Eat

  • Eat Weißwurst before noon, as the rule requires

  • Weisswurst before midday

    That is the rule and it is taken seriously. With sweet mustard and a pretzel.

  • A one-litre Maß

    Hold it by the handle, hand over the top. It will be heavy.

  • Obatzda in a Biergarten

    Cheese mashed with butter and paprika. You are allowed to bring your own food.

Moment

  • Spend an afternoon in a Biergarten under the chestnut trees

  • Watch the Eisbach surfers for half an hour

    An orderly queue, one at a time, for fifty years.

  • A whole afternoon in a Biergarten under chestnut trees

    The trees are there because they kept the beer ice cool. They still keep you cool.

Trail

  • Climb the Olympiaberg

    A hill made of war rubble. The city, and on a clear day the Alps.