Maldives, Maldives

Overwater villas on private atolls, manta rays and whale sharks. Dry season November to April.

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Best time to visit

Weather by month

MonthHighLowRainSeason
Jan28°26°89 mmprime
Feb28°27°52 mmprime
Mar28°27°63 mmprime
Apr29°27°124 mmprime
May29°27°216 mm
Jun29°27°96 mm
Jul28°27°131 mm
Aug28°27°144 mm
Sep28°26°177 mm
Oct28°26°199 mm
Nov28°26°231 mmprime
Dec28°26°199 mmprime

30-year averages (1995–2024) from ERA5 reanalysis via Open-Meteo. Rain is the monthly total.

Cost

Serves travellers at Budget→Ultra-luxury level. Typically around $600 a day on the ground.

Ranges are typical costs, not quotes. Check the real price before you book.

What's on

  • Independence Day July

    Parades in Malé

Worth knowing

  • Resorts bill everything to the room and settle by card; dollars are accepted and prices are often quoted in them. On local islands carry rufiyaa for shops and small guesthouses.

    money · editorial

  • Local islands are conservative Muslim communities: alcohol is not sold, and swimwear belongs only on the marked bikini beach. Resort islands operate under different rules entirely, which is why they are separate islands.

    know before · editorial

  • The wet monsoon runs roughly May to October, with June the wettest and windiest. Rain comes in bursts rather than all day, but the sea gets choppy and seaplane transfers are more often delayed.

    when not to go · editorial

  • The real choice is a resort island, which is one property and nothing else, or a guesthouse on an inhabited local island such as Maafushi, Thulusdhoo or Dhigurah, which is a village with shops and neighbours. North and South Male atolls are the shortest transfers; Baa and Ari atolls are further and better for mantas and sharks.

    where to stay · editorial

  • You do not. One island is the day. Public ferries connect the inhabited islands cheaply but run slowly and not every day, and resorts are private islands with no way off except the boat they send.

    getting around · editorial

  • Everything arrives at Velana International, next to Male. From there it is a speedboat or a seaplane to your island, from twenty minutes to over an hour. Seaplanes only fly in daylight, so a late arrival can mean an unplanned night near the airport.

    getting there · editorial

Quests

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  • Malé fish market

    Tuna landed on the quay and cleaned in front of you, in the afternoon.

  • Hukuru Miskiy

    A carved coral mosque from 1658, with cut tombstones in the courtyard.

  • Maafushi

    A local island, with houses, a school and rules about dress. The other Maldives.

  • Hulhumalé

    An island built from nothing with pumped sand, to make room for people.

  • The artificial beach in Malé

    Where the capital goes to swim, everyone fully dressed.

  • A channel reef

    Where the current runs into the atoll and brings everything with it.

See

  • Dive with manta rays

Eat

  • Eat mas huni for breakfast, with roshi

  • Mas huni for breakfast

    Shredded tuna with grated coconut, onion and lime, with roshi bread.

  • Garudhiya

    A clear tuna broth with rice, lime and chilli. The everyday dish.

  • Afternoon hedhikaa

    Fish snacks served between three and five, with black tea.

Moment

  • Swim at night, when the plankton lights the water

  • Bioluminescent plankton on the sand

    It happens on some nights, on some islands. Nobody can promise it.

  • A manta ray passing overhead

    From May to November they gather to feed on plankton in the western atolls.

Water

  • A scuba dive in a channel

    Strong current, a reef hook, and sharks passing off to the side.