Bariloche, Argentina

Andean lake district with South America's biggest ski area (Cerro Catedral) and Swiss-style chocolate shops.

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Best time to visit

Prime months: January, February, July, August, December.

Weather by month

MonthHighLowRainSeason
Jan21°10°33 mmprime
Feb21°11°35 mmprime
Mar18°9°42 mm
Apr13°6°82 mm
May9°4°117 mm
Jun5°1°186 mm
Jul5°0°151 mmprime
Aug6°1°141 mmprime
Sep8°2°74 mm
Oct12°3°67 mm
Nov15°6°54 mm
Dec19°8°40 mmprime

30-year averages (1995–2024) from ERA5 reanalysis via Open-Meteo. Rain is the monthly total.

Cost

Serves travellers at Backpacker→Premium level. Typically around $110 a day on the ground.

Ranges are typical costs, not quotes. Check the real price before you book.

What's on

  • Chocolate Festival April

    The world's longest chocolate bar

  • Fiesta Nacional de la Nieve August

    National snow festival with torch-lit descents

Worth knowing

  • The road up to the ski area requires chains in winter and hire cars do not always come with them. Mountain weather here turns fast and refuges on the longer treks need booking rather than turning up.

    know before · editorial

  • The July ski holidays, when Argentine schools are out and the mountain and the town are both full. The shoulder months either side of winter are the other trap: lifts shut, trails muddy, half the town closed.

    when not to go · editorial

  • The town centre for restaurants, chocolate shops and buses. The kilometre markers along the lake road west of town trade convenience for views, ending at the Llao Llao peninsula. Villa La Angostura is the quieter alternative an hour away.

    where to stay · editorial

  • Local buses run out along the lake to the Circuito Chico and up to the ski area, and they are frequent enough in season. A car is what you want for the Seven Lakes road north and the trailheads.

    getting around · editorial

  • Bariloche has its own airport, about two hours by air from Buenos Aires and twenty minutes by road from town. Overland it is a very long bus ride across the pampas.

    getting there · editorial

  • Cards are accepted in town restaurants and hotels. Carry cash for buses, kiosks and the smaller places along the lake road, where card machines are unreliable.

    money · editorial

Quests

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  • Centro Cívico

    Stone and timber, a St Bernard, the lake behind. It is the obligatory photograph.

  • Cerro Campanario

    Seven minutes on the chairlift to one of the most photographed views in Patagonia.

  • Llao Llao and Puerto Pañuelo

    The hotel from a distance, the pier up close, the lake everywhere.

  • The Punto Panorámico on the Circuito Chico

    Stop at the viewpoint. Everyone drives straight past and regrets it.

  • Cerro Catedral

    With snow or without. The view from the top does not depend on the season.

See

  • Drive the whole Circuito Chico and stop at the Punto Panorámico

Eat

  • Eat a dark chocolate on Mitre — it is touristy, and it is good

  • Chocolate on Calle Mitre

    Half a kilo sounds excessive until you taste it.

  • Patagonian lamb

    Roasted slowly. Like everything around here.

Moment

  • Climb to the Refugio Frey and sleep there

  • Sunset over Nahuel Huapi

    The light turns orange all at once and is gone in twenty minutes.

Trail

  • Refugio Frey

    Six hours there and back among granite spires. Carry extra water.

Water

  • A day of skiing at Catedral