Bariloche, Argentina
Andean lake district with South America's biggest ski area (Cerro Catedral) and Swiss-style chocolate shops.
Best time to visit
Weather by month
Cost
Serves travellers at Backpacker→Premium level. Typically around $110 a day on the ground.
Ranges are typical costs, not quotes. Check the real price before you book.
What's on
Chocolate Festival April
The world's longest chocolate bar
Fiesta Nacional de la Nieve August
National snow festival with torch-lit descents
Worth knowing
The road up to the ski area requires chains in winter and hire cars do not always come with them. Mountain weather here turns fast and refuges on the longer treks need booking rather than turning up.
know before · editorial
The July ski holidays, when Argentine schools are out and the mountain and the town are both full. The shoulder months either side of winter are the other trap: lifts shut, trails muddy, half the town closed.
when not to go · editorial
The town centre for restaurants, chocolate shops and buses. The kilometre markers along the lake road west of town trade convenience for views, ending at the Llao Llao peninsula. Villa La Angostura is the quieter alternative an hour away.
where to stay · editorial
Local buses run out along the lake to the Circuito Chico and up to the ski area, and they are frequent enough in season. A car is what you want for the Seven Lakes road north and the trailheads.
getting around · editorial
Bariloche has its own airport, about two hours by air from Buenos Aires and twenty minutes by road from town. Overland it is a very long bus ride across the pampas.
getting there · editorial
Cards are accepted in town restaurants and hotels. Carry cash for buses, kiosks and the smaller places along the lake road, where card machines are unreliable.
money · editorial
Quests
Icon
Centro Cívico
Stone and timber, a St Bernard, the lake behind. It is the obligatory photograph.
Cerro Campanario
Seven minutes on the chairlift to one of the most photographed views in Patagonia.
Llao Llao and Puerto Pañuelo
The hotel from a distance, the pier up close, the lake everywhere.
The Punto Panorámico on the Circuito Chico
Stop at the viewpoint. Everyone drives straight past and regrets it.
Cerro Catedral
With snow or without. The view from the top does not depend on the season.
See
Drive the whole Circuito Chico and stop at the Punto Panorámico
Eat
Eat a dark chocolate on Mitre — it is touristy, and it is good
Chocolate on Calle Mitre
Half a kilo sounds excessive until you taste it.
Patagonian lamb
Roasted slowly. Like everything around here.
Moment
Climb to the Refugio Frey and sleep there
Sunset over Nahuel Huapi
The light turns orange all at once and is gone in twenty minutes.
Trail
Refugio Frey
Six hours there and back among granite spires. Carry extra water.
Water
A day of skiing at Catedral